Off the Beaten Path: Keswick

County: Cumbria

I’ve written time and again about Keswick, but I thought I’d make it a little more formal in this “Off the Beaten Path” series.

Keswick is located in Cumbria (aka Cumberland) in a region known as the northern lakes. I’m trying to recall my first trip here, but it’s been decades. I keep coming back to this area for so many reasons and to Keswick, specially. In this article, I’ll tell you a little about what I’ve found here, why I love it, and why you should go!

The Environment

Derwentwater, that blissful lake, runs alongside one edge of Keswick. It’s approximately 3 miles long by 1 mile wide and about 72 feet deep. This picturesque lake is just the beginning, because as you enter the town from its shores, you notice the local theatre, park, and pathways. Keswick is a market town, and you can find a market there on Thursdays, Saturdays, and bank holidays. The place can get a bit crowded on the weekends and in the summers as Keswick is a hub for all things outdoors. From the local hills (known as fells) to the forests and slate architecture, Keswick is definitely a place you don’t want to miss!

Lodging

For many years, I’ve stayed at the Goodwin House B&B in Room #6 at the top of the stairs. Great views and it’s en-suite. However, I believe the place has been sold. It’s a great location and if there are new owners, you’d have to check out their reviews on Trip Advisor. I also stayed in Seven Oaks which was well-reviewed. Unfortunately, though I’d reserved WAY in advance, they gave our room to another and put us in a smaller room upstairs. They did say they were sorry and gave us a discount, but I probably won’t be going back. The local hostel is right on the River Greta. Very picturesque and very well run. If you’re on a budget, try this place for a stay! For other places, I’d check TripAdvisor or ask in the forums. The good news for you is that there are so many B&Bs that prices are competitive. You can get a lot for your money here!

Getting There

Getting to Keswick can be a challenge as it doesn’t sit on a rail stop. However, you *can* find rail links to Penrith and then it’s about 15 miles away. There are regular buses from the train station. You might take into account the bus stop and the location of the hotel you’re booking. If you’re driving and heading in from Penrith, try not to do it on a weekend! I got caught in a major traffic jam of folks heading to the lakes and it took me an hour to move seven miles.

Things to do in Keswick

This is where Keswick really shines – especially if you are the outdoorsy type. I’m going to list a few of my favorite things here in bullet format:

• Take a cruise of Derwentwater. The cruise boats also act as “hop on , hop off” transportation for those wanting to hike in more remote locations. You can get off the boat at one stop, hike a mountain/large hill, and return to another stop on the route to be picked up. If you buy your tickets from Moot Hall in the town center, you’ll get a discount on your ticket. Walking to the boat ramp is easy as there are scenic public footpaths the whole way.
• Try Ye Olde Friar’s sweet shop in the center of town for a diet-busting dessert treat. In business since 1927!
• George Fisher’s outdoor shop is the best (in my humble opinion) of the local sporting goods stores. They specialize in all things mountaineering, and if you decide to take on a major fell, you can rent your boots and hiking poles from them. Call in advance to make sure they have what you need.
• Town Market. The real thing is on Saturdays, but there’s a craft market on Thursdays, and the real thing sometimes also extends to bank holidays. I always try to make the market as you’ll never know what you’ll find there! I’ve gotten everything from kitchen towels to a customized slate sign to hang on my door at home.
• Latrigg. Latrigg is one of the best vantage points of anywhere in the northern lakes. It’s also easily reached from Keswick by foot (it took me about 3.5 to 4 hours and I’ve not hiked much). If you don’t want to take that long, and if you have a car, you can drive to a car park just beneath the summit and walk the rest of the way. The views are beyond spectacular!

• Wandering the town. There’s just so much (even though it’s a small town). There are charity shops (don’t miss the huge Oxfam store located down an alleyway), gift stores, and all sorts of retail. I’d suggest taking half a day to see the market, wander the town, and get lunch at a nice spot.
• Moot Hall is where the town information center is, where you can buy those cheap Derwentwater cruise tickets, and find out where you might want to spend the rest of your day. If you like, there are tour guides that take you on hikes in the area starting out from Moot Hall each day. Tip: Contact the local ramblers groups to see if you can join an organized hike for little or nothing!

Restaurants

There are some places that I always end up, it seems. The back garden of Oddfellows pub (because I have friends with dogs). The Packhorse Inn (decent food). Skiddaw Hotel offers a lovely afternoon tea. For something cheap, try Gregg’s bakery (it’s a chain – they have sandwiches and such). For fish n chips, I like the Keswickian – right next door to Greggs.

What Would I Pass On?

They have a local theatre just by the boat launch. It’s modern and looks like it has all the bells and whistles. The play I saw there was Dracula and between the thick northern accents (normally, I’m pretty good at understanding those), the lack of a microphone, and the strange story line… we left at intermission. Not so impressed.

Some shops really hike their prices up for tourists, but others remain reasonable. Pass on those mark ups!

Pass on event weekends. If you must stay over a weekend, try to be in Keswick before the weekend begins and leave after it’s over. Otherwise, traffic can be a nightmare!

Hidden Gems?

On a nice evening, I like to go to St. John’s churchyard and find a bench to meditate upon the hills and the beauty of nature around me. Take a peek inside because the church is lovely, or you can attend a service if you like!

St. Johns

Hope Garden is located next to Derwentwater and you can go through it as a route back to the town. Exquisite flowers and trees, families picnicking, what’s not to love?

Hope Garden

Take the local bus to Grasmere to tour that lovely town and see William Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage. You may also want to visit Hilltop House in Windermere (further down the road) which is the home of Beatrix Potter.

Summary

The Lake District is always on my to do list when I come to England, and Keswick is my favorite town in the area. Windermere and Grasmere tend to be VERY touristy (which I try to avoid). Keswick has tourists, but not in the same magnitude. You can walk to some of the most amazing vistas right from the town and it doesn’t even take that long! As far as amenities, Keswick has more than you could ever hope for in a market town built on the edge of a picturesque lake surrounded by lofty mountains and ancient landscapes. What are you waiting for?